Replacing the timing belt
- Thread starter Doughnut
- Start date
This might help, Pelican Parts Tech Article
The article that Big Daddy posted is a good article.
It's an easy job - I've done it twice on mine. Did it in about 40 minutes the second time around (took me longer the first time since I was unfamiliar and was following the directions in the Bentley). Unless the water pump has been replaced recently, go ahead and replace it too since it'll be in the wide open and easy to remove. Alot of people recommend removing the hood. I did it the first time, and it definitely made it easier to see everything. The second time, I did not remove the hood because I was familiar with the procedure, but it does make it a little harder to see what you are doing.
It's an easy job - I've done it twice on mine. Did it in about 40 minutes the second time around (took me longer the first time since I was unfamiliar and was following the directions in the Bentley). Unless the water pump has been replaced recently, go ahead and replace it too since it'll be in the wide open and easy to remove. Alot of people recommend removing the hood. I did it the first time, and it definitely made it easier to see everything. The second time, I did not remove the hood because I was familiar with the procedure, but it does make it a little harder to see what you are doing.
Is removing the hood simple enough?
And can the job be done without having to get under the car? ie. not having to use jack stands or a hoist?
"jrt67ss350" how often do you change ur timing belt and water pump? on the "pelicanparts" website it says every 2nd time you do the belt, you should change the water pump. but you shouldent have to change it that often?? on "www.realoem.com" a new bmw water pump is $77.00 how much did you pay?
thanks for the replys
And can the job be done without having to get under the car? ie. not having to use jack stands or a hoist?
"jrt67ss350" how often do you change ur timing belt and water pump? on the "pelicanparts" website it says every 2nd time you do the belt, you should change the water pump. but you shouldent have to change it that often?? on "www.realoem.com" a new bmw water pump is $77.00 how much did you pay?
thanks for the replys
Removing the hood is simple - three bolts on each side and one for the prop rod. You can pretty easily remove it with just yourself, but it helps if you have another person to help hold the hood when reinstalling it. You are going to need jack stands or ramps since you will have to get under the car to drain the coolant, remove the belts, and to disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator (go ahead and remove the radiator - it gives you MUCH more room to work and it's only two bolts to remove it). You won't need a hoist for anything.
I replaced my timing belt not long after I bought the car and then I tore the front of the engine down to the timing belt to diagnose a bearing squeak a couple of months ago (which incidentally turned out to be the water pump and not the timing belt tensioner as I had suspected). I changed the water pump the first time I replaced the belt and it needed to be replaced again a couple of months ago. The water pumps on these cars aren't the most robust and it isn't any more work to replace the pump if you are already in there replacing the belt, so just go ahead and replace it every time you replace the timing belt.
The first time I replaced the water pump, I bought an aftermarket Geba pump since it was cheaper than from the BMW dealer and it obviously didn't last, so I would recommend putting a BMW pump in it. I think it was about $70 at the dealer (vs. $60+shipping for the aftermarket pump). Buy the timing belt and tensioner pulley from the dealer too - best to use OEM stuff for those since they are such important parts.
I replaced my timing belt not long after I bought the car and then I tore the front of the engine down to the timing belt to diagnose a bearing squeak a couple of months ago (which incidentally turned out to be the water pump and not the timing belt tensioner as I had suspected). I changed the water pump the first time I replaced the belt and it needed to be replaced again a couple of months ago. The water pumps on these cars aren't the most robust and it isn't any more work to replace the pump if you are already in there replacing the belt, so just go ahead and replace it every time you replace the timing belt.
The first time I replaced the water pump, I bought an aftermarket Geba pump since it was cheaper than from the BMW dealer and it obviously didn't last, so I would recommend putting a BMW pump in it. I think it was about $70 at the dealer (vs. $60+shipping for the aftermarket pump). Buy the timing belt and tensioner pulley from the dealer too - best to use OEM stuff for those since they are such important parts.
thanks for the input "jrt67ss350", i finally have a day off tomorrow, so ill devote that time to pulling the hood and radiator out to get a really good go at the old girl.
while ive got your attention "jrt67ss350" what oil would you recomend for my 1986 manuall gearbox, and diff? ive heard that in some of these gearboxes they put auto tranny oil in them? is this true? my diff isnt a lsd(limited slip).
Ive got a castrol lubrication guide that says to use "EPX 80W/90" for the diff and to use "VMX 80" for the transmition, (having a viscosity of - SAE 80),
what do you put in your 1987 325?
while ive got your attention "jrt67ss350" what oil would you recomend for my 1986 manuall gearbox, and diff? ive heard that in some of these gearboxes they put auto tranny oil in them? is this true? my diff isnt a lsd(limited slip).
Ive got a castrol lubrication guide that says to use "EPX 80W/90" for the diff and to use "VMX 80" for the transmition, (having a viscosity of - SAE 80),
what do you put in your 1987 325?
My '87 calls for ATF in the tranny, so that's what I use. Some of the trannys in these cars call for ATF, some call for gear oil. One way to tell is that if ATF is called for, there will be a pink sticker on the passenger's side of the transmission bellhousing. Also, if the drain and fill plugs on the transmission require a large allen key, then gear oil is called for. If the plugs are just hex heads that you can stick a socket on to remove, then ATF is the right oil.
For differential oil, I use Mobil 1 synthetic. I don't remember the weight.
For differential oil, I use Mobil 1 synthetic. I don't remember the weight.
Im certain my gearbox calls for the particular gear oil ive got (Castrol vmx-80) as my fill and drain plugs need a large allen key to remove.
Haynes workshop manual specify that i use "antifreeze/Antiboil" in the cooling system. Yesterday I was looking at a bottle of 1lt concentrate coolant that said "not to be used in cooling systems requiring antifreeze/antiboil coolants" what will happen if i use normal coolant and not "antifreeze/antiboil" coolant in the system?
I live in a part of Australia that never gets cold enough to snow, and it never gets extremely hot either.
Thankyou so much for the input
Haynes workshop manual specify that i use "antifreeze/Antiboil" in the cooling system. Yesterday I was looking at a bottle of 1lt concentrate coolant that said "not to be used in cooling systems requiring antifreeze/antiboil coolants" what will happen if i use normal coolant and not "antifreeze/antiboil" coolant in the system?
I live in a part of Australia that never gets cold enough to snow, and it never gets extremely hot either.
Thankyou so much for the input
Yes, you can probably change the belt without changing the tensioner. But you run two risks:
1- The tensioner is bad, and you will HAVE to replace it to complete the job.
2- The tensioner fails a little later, and it damages the belt, or worse, throws off the timing and damages the valve train.
"Pay me a little now, or pay me a lot more later."
1- The tensioner is bad, and you will HAVE to replace it to complete the job.
2- The tensioner fails a little later, and it damages the belt, or worse, throws off the timing and damages the valve train.
"Pay me a little now, or pay me a lot more later."
Ok you convinced me to buy a tensioner.
While im in there im thinking of replacing the water pump also, but rather than using a genuine bmw spec pump, im thinking of purchasing this : http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BMW-Water-Pu...QQihZ005QQcategoryZ102322QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
(The picture is for illistration purposes.) its got a stainless steel drive impellor, and its cheaper than a real bmw pump, i know jrt67ss350 had trouble with an aftermarket pump but if im doing a genuine bmw timing belt and tensioner,i think im gunna have no money for a pump,
thoughts welcome, and cheers Kirby.
While im in there im thinking of replacing the water pump also, but rather than using a genuine bmw spec pump, im thinking of purchasing this : http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BMW-Water-Pu...QQihZ005QQcategoryZ102322QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
(The picture is for illistration purposes.) its got a stainless steel drive impellor, and its cheaper than a real bmw pump, i know jrt67ss350 had trouble with an aftermarket pump but if im doing a genuine bmw timing belt and tensioner,i think im gunna have no money for a pump,
thoughts welcome, and cheers Kirby.
Yes, definitely replace the tensioner. They have a finite life, and are designed to be replaced when the belt is replaced.
If you don't have the money for a BMW pump, then I would probably go for an aftermarket. Just be aware that you may be replacing the pump before you replace the timing belt again.
If you don't have the money for a BMW pump, then I would probably go for an aftermarket. Just be aware that you may be replacing the pump before you replace the timing belt again.
No - what the manual is saying is that if your tensioner is of the earlier design that does not have the stamping you mentioned, then it needs to be replaced IMMEDIATELY regardless of whether or not it is time to replace the belt. The earlier tensioner design was noted to have a fairly frequent failure rate, so the tensioner was redesigned to the current design. The redesign happened in the late 80's, so it is extremely likely that your car has the redesigned tensioner since it has likely had the timing belt replaced in the meantime.
You should always replace the tensioner when replacing the belt. If money is an issue, and you have to make a choice between replacing the tensioner or replacing the water pump, you should definitely replace the tensioner.
You should always replace the tensioner when replacing the belt. If money is an issue, and you have to make a choice between replacing the tensioner or replacing the water pump, you should definitely replace the tensioner.